If you’d like to start collecting silver jewellery but don’t want to spend a lot of money, it might be worth focusing on American silver jewellery dating from the mid-20th century onwards. A lot of American silver jewellery has a fabulous retro or mid century modernist feel, but the prices are much lower than similar Scandinavian mid-century modernist silver jewellery, which has increased considerably in value over the last few years.
Here then is my round-up of American silver jewellery makers. You can pick up pieces by these designers on eBay or Etsy, or (occasionally) in my shop and in other vintage jewellery sites and real-world shops. The list is by no means comprehensive, so by all means get in touch if there are makers/companies that you’d like me to add.
Avon
Avon isn’t just about toiletries and cosmetics – they’ve been selling costume and sterling silver jewellery since 1971. Not the company’s own designs, but pieces produced by other manufacturers. One highly collectable example from the Seventies is its “Treasured Heart” bypass ring, which is based on the spoon rings that were highly popular at the time.
Beau Sterling
This company traded under the name Beaucraft Inc and was in operation until 2004. Based in Providence, Rhode Island, Beaucraft Inc was set up in 1947 and produced a fantastic range of jewellery. AFAICT the main emphasis was on brooches and charms with a modernistic and/or naturalistic theme, as you can see from this lovely stylised cat brooch on the right. Many Beau Sterling pieces have a brushed finish, sometimes contrasted with a highly polished rhodium plate. In a lot of vintage Beau sterling jewellery, this plating has worn off or got scratched, giving a not unappealing distressed look.
Carl-Art
Another company based in Providence, Rhode Island. Carl-Art was founded in 1937 and ceased operations in the 1980s. In terms of designs, a lot of Carl-Art pieces had a naturalistic theme (flowers, leaves, butterflies), set with rhinestones, cultured pearls and other stones. Maker’s mark is the letters “CA” with an arrow going through them.
Coro/Corocraft
This company began life in the early 1900s and made costume jewellery in a range of qualities from “five and dime” upwards. The vintage sterling silver pieces are often very reminiscent of jewellery by Beau, Napier, Carl-Art and Danecraft – including some lovely Georg Jensen-like brooches featuring doves and startled young fawns. Bless.
Danecraft
Also based in Providence, Rhode Island. The actual company who makes Danecraft has undergone several name changes since it started life as the Primavera Brothers Jewelry Company in the 1920s. The Danecraft mark has been a constant though, at least from the 1930s on. Why did an American company use the name Danecraft? Because one of the founders was a huge fan of Scandinavian silversmiths. Like the work by Scandinavian designers, a lot of Danecraft silver jewellery is inspired by nature – a notable example being the acorn and oak leaf series of brooches and bracelets which are on my personal wish list! The company is still going today.
Gorham sterling
Another Providence Rhode Island company, which began trading in the 19th century. Like Towle Sterling (see below), Gorham is a maker of flatware rather than a jeweller but if you look online, you can find a lot of fabulously attractive spoon rings made from Gorham silver spoons! Occasionally you can also find Gorham spoons that have been fashioned into brooches by soldering a pin on the back.
Napier
This company started life in 1875 as Whitney & Rice in Attleboro, Massachusetts and like Danecraft, underwent a number of reincarnations/name changes. The name Napier first appeared in the 1920s and derives from the then company president James Napier. Napier designs from the middle of the 20th century have a strong resemblance to pieces by Beau and Carl-Art. After successive buyouts, the Napier brand name disappeared in 1999.
Stuart Nye
Founded in 1933, Stuart Nye is still going today and is based in Asheville, North Carolina. Lightweight yet strong and well-made, the pieces made by this company feature beautiful naturalistic designs in silver, copper and brass – recurring themes include dogwood flowers, trillium flowers, calla lilies and pine cones.
Towle Sterling
Towle Sterling is better known for its cutlery/flatware, but over the years it has produced a seasonal range of Christmas ornaments in silver, such as snowflakes and angels! These make great pendants and are highly collectable.
© The Silver Snake June 2011
Links
http://www.jacksonjewels.com/Reference/Jewelry_Companies_A-C.htm
http://www.illusionjewels.com/costumejewelrymarkscoro.html
http://www.danecraft.com/index_files/Page366.htm
http://www.silvercollection.it/gorham.html
http://www.vintagejewelrycollect.com/2005/08/napier-company-jewelry-history-wanted.html